Tuesday, September 2, 2008

The Great North-South divide??

I take the tube to office every day. The tube rail in Kolkata parlance is the metro rail, a notch above or shall I say, a class apart from the suburban train lines, which is used by the Oh so uncool (this is usually accompanied by a slight flutter of eyes and twitching nostrils) people living in the North and beyond.
Kolkata to its residents is divided in two very sharp parts - the new South - shining malls, wide boulevards, costly acreage - apartments and condominiums, urban chic and the old North - crumbling mansions, narrow lanes, close-knit families and old-world views.
This divide extends to food habits (illish and khichuri vs prawn and aluposto), football clubs (East Bengal vs Mohun Bagan), cultural choices (malls/multiplexes vs theatres), shop names (New Groceries vs Bipiner Mudikhana - both being local grocery stores), restaurants (KFC vs Golbari), Bangal (migrants from earstwhile East Pakistan and now Bangladesh) vs Ghoti (original inhabitants of the land) etc. etc. Some more on this Great Debate on the latter at a later date.
You will find a Lake Gardens or Moore Avenue in the south, while there will be a Dorjipara or Chaltabaagan in the north. Every third dude in the south will be a gym-toned and potential member of M/s. Brashness Incorporated - a Rahoul, Rajiev or Rakesh, while his northern counterpart will be tongue-tied and shy Nepo, Goja or Bhoja. For every short-skirted Neha or Priyanka from the south studying in Loreto or La'Martiniere there will be a doe-eyed, sari-clad Swapnosundari or Sreeparna studying in Aryakanya Vidyalaya or Mahakali Pathshala.
The Kolkata Metro is the bridge joining the metaphysical gap, between the happening (to some) New Age south and so-yesterday (hearsay) North.
While returning from office every evening, I used to see a couple at the metro station- so obviously in love, giggling, laughing, whispering to each other - the boy distinguished by his attire and mannerisms to be a Southerner, laptop chugging, smooth shaven, gelled hair - styled at some salon by a beautician, by the looks of it. The girl, quite sweet in countenance sported saris normally and the occassional salwar suits, with timid downcast eyes of a doe in flight, typical Northie....
For months, I saw them - became a sort of daily habit, checking them out standing in their usual place, deeply engrossed in each other. All of a sudden, I missed the couple for several weeks. Then one evening, found them again, the lady now sporting sindur on her forehead, her hair coming down in enchanting waves to her petite waist and her man, proprietorily holding her arm, striding to catch the very train, I would take to my southern destination..
It set me thinking, that for all that we speak of the unbridgeable divide of the North and the South - the twain does meet and for all that we read of a loveless world - love really does exist..

Office timey a metror byastota,
Jatri manusher onyomonoskota,
Varakranto vir-varey - Sojoteny bojaye rakha durottota;

Eri majhey ghotey akosmikota,
Jokhon sochetonota vangey durottota,
Ghottey parey kono ovobyota - Kinba ghotey prem;

Byasto manush byasto thekey jai,
Duranto prem aro duranto hoi,
Jibon choley taar joibik niyomey,
Premer porinoti khojey porinoy,
Othoba, hotath pawa shunyota......

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Rajiv,I really liked your article on "The Great North South divide??"
I became a bit nostalgic reading it as I have spent my entire college life ( + 2 or HS to graduation B Sc in the typical hardcore North Kolkata culture,as I did the same from Scottish Church College,at Beadon street better known as "Hedua" typical north Kolkata style).I was well aversed with the ali goli of Hedua, Maniktala, Goabagan,Hatibagan, Fariapukur,Shyambazar.I had lot of friends studying in Bethune College, Vidyasagar College, Ram Mohan, Ahmerst street, Presidency to name a few.I was a regular at the Great Indian Coffee House at College Street, better known as boipara.We use to have lot of aaddas in College Street and Basanta Cabin over tea,coffee, and fish fry,sometime chingri fry (if we saved some money from tutions). We also have lots of JAM in Hedua park over muri telebhaja and boudir cha (even Mithun Chakraborty during his college days as Ramkrishna Chakraborty was her patron) From our JAM sessions one of our senior is now an eminent Band celebrity of Chandrabindu, Anindo, whom we use to call Anindoda.During that time one more thing was very much associated with our typical north Kolkata life....our means of communication --- Tram, which was very cheap and affordable for us as we use to travel second class with students concession which was at the tone of 0.35 p per trip.Any ways I am getting a bit biast over North Kolkata but there was a drastic change in my life as I grew up. My Job in a pharmaceutical house as a MR brought me to South Kolkata which was my working territory.I became aversed with Gariahat, Golpark,Jadavpur, Tollygunge, Ballygaung,Tratala etc etc. i came to a liking for Chinese food- Soups, Chowmein,Friedrice, Chilli chicken,momos and variety of rolls.I also became a fan of Biryiani in geesan, sriraj,southern aminia and also became a regular in China Town in tnagra.Then the most pleasant thing in my life happened,falling in love and getting married to a typical south Kolkata lasse.I started a liking for variety of fish - like iilish,lotte,gurjali,bacha to name a few.I stared to be a regular Sunday marketter at Lake Market to try out on various new fish.Well thats how life goes and now after ten years of my marriage I am a typical South Kolkattan, with a liking for malls,multiplex,cafe coffeday,Mcdonalds,and also cross roads for college street boipara,going to likes of Big Bazzar, Spencers, More, instead of Hatibagan or Maniktolla bazar,enjoying the extra cool ride of Kolkata tube as you mentioned- metro rail instead of the old fashioned trams.So now I really can proudly say that I am a South Kolkatan but still at the core deep part of my hart somewhere I still cherish those,old warm lovely memories of North Kolkata.